We had the most amazing sushi on Friday night, and we may never eat sushi anywhere else ever again.
One of my colleagues had told me about
Hiko Sushi on National. The chef goes to the fish market every morning and selects the best fish for the day's menu--no fresh fish on the weekends, so no weekend hours. No rolls, no
donburi, no nonsense of any kind. Sounds marvellous, except that I'd also read posts online about how the chef is deadly serious about the experience--if you're not eating your sushi correctly, if you're screwing around with your meal--they have been known to take away your chopsticks and tell you that you're done. Crazy!
Suffice to say, our interest was sufficently piqued. How good could this sushi be, that you would be willing to sublimate any natural tendencies towards individualism? Could anyone really be so bold as to insist that his way is the only way sushi will be eaten, or you're out? Could this casual little cafe, with its unassuming front and melanine dishes, really have an experience that was that special?
I can only say that after this experience, I truly understand the meaning of the "chef's choice" option at sushi bars. The word
omakase literally means to entrust in Japanese, and while the concept can seem foreign and somewhat intimidating (especially with the threat of dire consequences lingering overhead should you displease the owners), it will take only one taste to convince you that anything placed before you in this restaurant will tantalize your taste buds.
With a minimum order of 4 dishes per person, we ended up with:
baby tuna sashimi with sesame ponzu
yellowtail
toro and red snapper with lemon and sea salt
albacore with garlic and ginger ponzu
crab hand roll
shaved hamachi wonton
sea bass with pickled seaweed
sweet shrimp








As the server brings each dish, she tells you tactfully whether you should be dipping it in soy sauce or whether it should be enjoyed just as is. We had one heartstopping moment when Hugo accidentally dipped a non-soy-sanctioned piece into soy sauce out of habit, but he quickly popped the offending morsel into his mouth before anyone noticed. (I also was a bit more furtive about my photo-taking than usual, as I realized after the first dish how wonderful the experience was going to be and I really, really did not want to get thrown out. If you get reprimanded for using soy sauce who knows what would happen if they objected to photography in their restaurant!)
Anyway, we could not have enjoyed ourselves more. Everything put before us was an astonishing blend of flavors and textures. Every bit of fish was incredibly clean and fresh, with a luxurious, buttery texture unlike anything we'd ever tasted before. The sushi rice is served warm, which in many dishes made a wonderful contrast to the chilled fish. We even enjoyed the thin, papery hand roll--I'm not usually a big fan of those, as the seaweed tends to be thick, rubbery, and tough. Not so here--the seaweed was pliable and chewy, and made the most wonderful slight crackling noise as you ate the fresh cold crab and warm rice. My favorite had to be the red snapper with lemon and sea salt, however--the subtle, delicate flavors somehow intricately enhanced but did not overwhelm the pretty, translucent fish.
Dining here was an amazing experience. Be forewarned, no prices are mentioned, and for the two of us (including a beer and tea), the bill was about $140 with tip. But it was one of the best meals we'd ever had. Hiko also has weird hours--lunch is from 12:00 pm - 1:45 pm, and dinner from 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm, weekdays only.
There is something divinely freeing and exciting about handing over your whim and every random desire over to another person. Not something I'd do lightly, but after tasting the results, I convinced there is nothing I wouldn't eat that was laid before me here, in whatever manner I was instructed. In the hands of this master chef, every dish is presented exactly as it should be--and for the willing, adventurous guest, a feast of unparalleled flavors and sensations is the reward.